Wednesday, February 27, 2013

My Trip to the Moon aka Swakopmund! (Part 1)

Okay so I didn't really go to the moon....this past weekend was our trip to the coast of Namibia to a town called Swakopmund. I swear it looked like what I pictured the moon would look like though. On our 3 hours bus ride from Windhoek I fell asleep in the city and woke up to just desert all around me. It was legitimately only desert, sky, and mountains in the distance for miles. It really was one of the strangest looking places ever but then again it was my first time in the desert. I dubbed it to look like the moon and we all joked about how we were staying on the moon for the rest of the weekend.

The view for miles...looks like the moon right?
The trusty CGE van in the middle of the desert
Swakopmund is a city on the northwestern Namibia about 170 miles west of Windhoek. The city is situated in the middle of the Namib desert and has about 42,000 inhabitants. It was originally founded in 1892 as the main harbor for German South-West Africa (now Namibia) and has a very significant German influence and a large part of its population today is German. We arrived at our guest house and it was the cutest thing ever. It was bright orange and purple and we stayed in mini houses. It was also a 5 minute walk to the beach! Walking around in this area really made me feel like I was back in Rhode Island. I was getting emotional and even more homesick but I still found comfort in being back near the ocean again. We even had our weekly yoga class by the beach! It was extremely relaxing but I really enjoyed being able to put my hand and feet in the sand and really feel the earth below me.
The guest houses we stayed in
The walk to the beach from our houses
Margaret jumped right in, the water was beautiful!
I still love RI beaches but these were a close second
We were all so happy to be back near the water :)
Our first day in Swakopmund we took a tour of Mondesa, a township originally for black residents of Swakopmund. It is still the poorest district with high rates of unemployment but is also the fastest growing area in terms of population. We took a tour of the area and walked around the streets observing the houses and talking to the locals. I found Mondesa to be very welcoming and I did not feel as awkward or out of place as I did in other places like Kliptown from my Johannesburg experience. We were greeted by an a-Capella group from the neighborhood called Vocal Galore and they sang a couple of songs for us right in their backyard. They were awesome and all such nice people. I bought a CD of theirs to bring back home to the US. Afterwards, we met with Josephina, a local Damara woman who has lived in Mondesa for a lot of her life. She was the cutest and sassiest old woman ever and made us all laugh so much even though we did not speak the same language. I was amazed at how we were all able to communicate and understand each other despite our differences. Laughter and smiles really are the universal languages of the world. She taught us about local Damara traditions and symbols of their culture. This was really interesting and super helpful because when we do our home stays in the North we will be living in Damara villages.
A street in Mondesa
Our group with Josephina
Traditional Damara cultural objects
After exploring Mondesa, we moved on to the Democratic Resettlement Community (DRC), a slum area of Swakopmund which was northeast of Mondesa. The DRC was a place that the government in Swakopmund used to try and push the poorest people further away from the city center and now is home to many problems such as poor sanitation, overpopulation, and high levels of disease. We visited a kindergarten where about 25 children were all lined up. As soon as we walked in they started singing and sang us about 4 songs they learned in class. It was one of the most adorable things I have seen in awhile and they were all so happy. We sang with them as well and played around with the children. When talking to the teacher in the one room school building we asked about what the biggest challenge she faces with these children is. She said that it is really hard for her because the children will all come into school in the morning sick and hungry, probably without food for the whole night. This affects their health and ability to pay attention and learn at school but she does her best and the school provides a meal for the children. She also mentioned that some of the children believe the kindergarten is more their home than their actual homes because of safety issues in the neighborhood. We even witnessed a young boy cry as his mom came to pick him up and forced him to leave the school and the rest of his friends. It is always hard for me for see situations like this and not have an emotional reaction. The kids were so incredibly happy in that kindergarten but at the end of the day most have to go home and face the reality of living in poverty. As we were leaving all of the children ran up to us and gave us hugs and even followed us out of the school building. As we continued on our tour we walked through the streets and lots of the children even ran along with us. Everyone felt so welcoming and I will not forget my trip to Mondesa and the DRC.
The kindergarten we visited
Each street in the DRC has one of these water pumps and it costs
10 Namibian dollars to pump 250 liters of water.
A view of the DRC from far away. You have to walk through the desert to get
there from Mondesa, this was intentional placement.
A street in the DRC
Our second day in Swakopmund we drove out to Walvis Bay, a town near Swakopmund that lies on the bay. It is a very industrial area of Namibia because of the many exports and imports they take in from the Bay. We visited the Walvis Bay Export Processing Zone and NamPort, Namibia's largest commercial port that has become a gateway for international trade. We took a tour of NamPort and its facilities and it is incredible how many things are imported and exported from Walvis Bay. It made me nervous though because this huge industrial section was located in the same bay, basically right next to, some species of sacred birds and a huge seal population. NamPort is also planning on trying to drill for oil so what will this do to the surrounding sacred environments? Industry is good for the economy of course but I couldn't help but think of how this all impacts the beautiful water and habitats that call Walvis Bay home.
NamPort's scary oil rig ready to drill...
After we did some industrial and economic touring of the area we got back on the bus to drive to see the Topnaar Community. The Topnaar are a branch of the Nama people and they mostly reside in the middle of the Namib desert in the area around Walvis Bay. Now when I say the middle of the desert...I mean the middle of the desert. We were driving for a lot longer than I expected and it was EXTREMELY bumpy. I was all the way in the back of the bus just bouncing around as we drove down a sand and gravel road for miles and miles. We finally arrived at the JP Brand Primary school in the middle of the desert. This is a boarding school where students live in dormitories during the school year because of its extremely remote nature. There were tons of kids just running around the school yard and we met with the principal and some teachers who told us about the school's history and challenges they face because of location. I cannot even describe how intense the location of this school was. We drove so far out and there was nothing for miles. I find it hard to understand how this school survives in such extreme conditions. They have a lot of communication problems and are basically cut off from the rest of the Walvis Bay community. They still manage to provide quality education for these students but have problems finding teachers who want to come all the way out to the school and live in such exclusion. The staff and students were all very enthusiastic and welcoming though despite the extreme heat and little shade available (this is what I struggled with obviously). The extreme differences in environments all throughout Namibia just continues to amaze me. A day before we were by the water and then we transitioned into extreme desert...it really is mind-blowing.
Outside of the school
One of the school buildings
Sand, sand, sand everywhere around you
A shack located near the school
The view around the school area
After the school visit, we went to visit some of the Topnaar people at their homes. We were extremely lucky and got to see a family processing the !nara melon. The !nara melon is a thorny desert plant and is the primary source of income and primary element of the Topnaar diet. The process is a long and strenuous one but you ultimately end up with just the seeds of the fruit. They taste almost like pumpkin seeds and I really enjoyed them actually! It was so kind of the family to let us observe the process and even try our hand in mixing the pulp of the fruit and separating the seeds.
Me stirring the pot of !nara pulp and seeds.
It was really difficult! 
The pot and fire that they use to cook the melons.
The finished product. Very delicious!
The melons before any processing has been done.
The pulp and seeds in the pot do not look so appetizing.
The house of the family we visited.
Our first couple of days in Swakopmund were so educational and I will never forget some of the experiences I had. Sorry this entry is so long but we just did so much, I had a lot to say! I still am going to write another blog post about some of the other awesome things I got to do while we were at the coast. I am still amazed at the amount of history in these areas and all that I am blessed to be able to learn about. I find it fascinating with all the different cultures, the political struggles, the economic divides and the social problems that exist here due to the rich histories. It is mind blowing to be driving through the city, then into townships and slums, then through mountains, straight into the desert for miles and miles, and then back at the wonderful coast. Namibia is absolutely beautiful and everyday something else makes me sit back and be thankful for how lucky I am to be here.

Enjoy some more pictures from the first part of our weekend! :)
Relaxing on the docks 
Flamingos were all over the bay!
This is all salt! There were huge salt flats and
we may have gotten out to taste the salt....
Flamingos everywhere!
Just some donkeys chilling by our bus
Are you sure we aren't on the moon?
The group roaming through sand sand sand.
Desert shacks
Me and Anneke with our donkey friends!
There was legitimately nothing here...
The road we drove down for miles and miles
To all of you who have made it to the end of this blog post, you win! Thank you for taking the time to read all the way through! It makes me really happy :) Stay tuned for another blog post in the coming days about climbing Dune 7 and kayaking with seals which were both some of the highlights of my entire trip so far!              

Monday, February 18, 2013

Peace and Serenity Through Hikes

Living in a house with 14 people 7,000 miles away from your home in a completely different place can be overwhelming and emotionally intense. I have found myself struggling to process all my thoughts and have found refuge in trying to journal as much as I can. Sometimes we also feel a little stuck after a week of classes and internships and not much leaving the house. Luckily, there is a good group of us that loves to explore nature and go hiking. Even though I haven't been hiking in awhile, I have always loved nature and decided to join the groups on some different hiking trails around Windhoek. Little did I know that these hikes would serve as some of my favorite moments so far and gave me a real sense of peace and serenity as well as an escape from the emotionally intense things we face everyday here.

The most beautiful views from the Aloe Trail!
A couple of weeks ago we visited the Aloe Trail, a nearby trail that is part of a botanical gardens and nature conservatory in Windhoek. It was extremely hot as we were walking from our house to the rail and I started to regret my decision to go. I'm glad I did not let the heat stop me because I would have missed out on a wonderful day! On our way we passed Windhoek High School and there was a huge track meet going on. All of the classes were competing in three teams of red, blue, and yellow. We decided to sit in the stadium and watch for a little to take a break from the heat. Everyone had so much school spirit! There were face paintings, streamers, balloons, singing, and even huge designed floats for each class. It was fun to be able to watch some of the races and cheer on the teams with the rest of the crowd. When we finally found the Aloe Trail it started to cool down a tiny bit as the sun hid behind some clouds (I was super thankful for that). We hiked for probably about an hour or so and saw so many beautiful plant life and scenery. You could overlook the whole city of Windhoek and I really took time to just take it all in. Everything here is so natural and beautiful and the skies never fail to amaze me. We had lots of fun and I attached some pictures for your enjoyment :)
Purposefully awkward pictures are always entertaining
Me, Margaret, Joe, Jacquelyn, and Jacob 
Friend loving overlooking Windhoek!
Just a couple of days ago we decided to take a day trip to Daan Viljeon, a local game reserve and national park filled with hiking trails and lodging for campers. We left around 9 am and it was the perfect weather. Finally not too hot and the sun wasn't beating down right on us. There was a slight breeze and I woke up smiling knowing that we picked a good day for a hike. After preparing sandwiches, snacks, and tons of water for the day the taxis came to pick us up and the seven of us were on our way! We drove out of the main city center of Windhoek and right past all of the informal settlements. Sometimes because we live in the main part of city you forget about the informal settlements and extremely impoverished neighborhoods right next to you. It was shocking again to see he major inequalities that exist just 10 minutes from each other. I still do not know how to handle it all and struggle with the privilege and status I have in this society just being a white American student. Observing these economic inequalities as well as the racial divide throughout Windhoek is something I have been struggling with and it continues to stump me everyday.

After passing through the informal settlements we drove for miles through hills and trees surrounded by beautiful nature with mountains in the background. We sat in silence as we all just gazed out the windows trying to take in that we are actually here and this is where we live. Even though I have been here for about a month I still cannot fully grasp the idea that I live here and this is my home. We started the hike nice and early in the morning and hiked the 9 kilometer trail (about 6 miles) for about 4 hours. We took our time traveling up and tried to take in everything around us. We paused on rocks and would sit in silence for awhile just looking around. I realized those were some of the first moments of silence since I have gotten here and I really treasured them. 
Hills for miles
Crazy big ostriches we saw
Jacquelyn, Hannah, and I
Epic picture overlooking everything
Jacquelyn and I legit on the edge of the mountain. I was so afraid to move on this rock!
So high up!
Channeling my inner yoga during my alone time on the rocks
Sitting on the edge of a mountain just overlooking miles and miles of hills and trees was when I really felt at home. I realized that this is a completely beautiful place and I was overcome with emotion with the fact that I made it here after many years of wishing and waiting. I am actually in Namibia and I could not be happier. Despite the everyday homesickness and missing everyone I finally started to realize that it is up to me to take this all in and really live in the moment. Maybe it is also the fact that I started doing yoga here and am really trying to connect with myself and my surrounding environment. I have had a tough past couple of months and yoga has really been helping me to remember to just relax, take some moments to myself, and get to know my body. After this beautiful and relaxing hike, I can finally say I am feeling connected to Namibia and everything it has to offer.

**The pictures are all taken by my lovely friends Hannah and Nan! My camera has been missing for the past couple of weeks but I am not giving up! Cross your fingers I will find it soon!

Meat, animals, and traditional dress: Windhoek Homestay!

Hello All!

So it has been some time since I last wrote but lots has been going on. I cannot believe I have been here for a month already! Time is flying by and it is both exhilarating and scary. I want to make sure I am taking in every moment and doing everything I can because before I know it I will be back on that plane to the US....

Recently, we did another homestay but this time it was with a family in Windhoek and we were there for a whole week. I stayed with the Katjivena family in Pioneers Park, a very nice neighborhood in Windhoek. My family consisted of my dad Festus, my mom Hilda, my 23 year old brother Rejah, 21 year old sister Virua, and my 17 year old sister Etjo. When I pulled up to the house I was immediately greeted by a big friendly dog that jumped right into my arms as I stepped out of the car. I was already happy because I had really been missing my cats back home and wanted some animals at my homestay. When I walked through the gates to my surprise there was an adorable orange cat waiting for me! Obviously I was the happiest girl ever because if you know me, you know my love for cats. I was completely surprised yet again when the tiniest little puppy I have ever seen came running towards me. It was the most lovable little thing ever and I spent a lot of the week playing with this puppy.
The adorable little puppy who I lived with :)
Having a cat made me feel less homesick :)
Immediately, my host mom brought my right into the kitchen and made me help her fry the fish and cook the rice for dinner. While we cooked she talked to me about her background and life in Namibia where she has been her whole life. My homestay family is part of the Herero people, an ethnic group residing in Southern Africa with the majority living in Namibia today. In 1904, the Herero underwent a major genocide led by the Germans. Not many people know about this genocide but it is actually considered the first genocide of the 20th century. The German government did not recognize this as a genocide or even recognize it until 2004 but still did nothing to compensate the families of the victims who underwent this horrible event in history. In total about 100,000 Herero died during the years 1904 and 1907 because of the systematic resources of the German army. This all happened during what many people call the "Scramble for Africa" which was when major European countries all rushed into Africa trying to take over as much land as possible. My host mom talked to me about the effect the genocide has had on the Herero people and her family as well. She explained to me why she was lighter skinned than the rest of most Herero because her grandmother was raped by a German soldier. Her mother even had blue eyes because of this. During the genocide, most of the men were killed and the women were left to be raped by the soldiers or even killed. Hearing about a historical event from the mouth of a person whose own family had been through it was very powerful and I will always remember her telling me the stories. Everyone in my house spoke Otjiherero, the traditional Herero language, and were very connected to their Herero culture.

It was my job in the house every night to help cook and serve the meals to the family along with cleaning up after everyone ate. I would usually cook with my mom or younger sister and they both taught me a lot about cooking. Namibians eat a lot of meat, which is normally not my favorite, but I have been trying to taste everything to be polite. To my surprise I have actually been enjoying most of the meat! During the week I ate fish, chicken, kudo, oryx, mince meat, lamb, and beef. It was A LOT of meat but I learned to cook, season, and prepare them all. I am not the biggest fan of touching raw meat but I sucked it up and even made meat balls! By the end of this week I definitely learned how much Namibians like their meat! Below are pictures of a kudo and an oryx which I ate (sorry cute animals)! Throughout Namibia there are lots of these deer like animals and you distinguish which is which by the shapes of their horns.

A kudo
An oryx
After dinner we would all sit around the house either talking with neighbors or watching soccer. Soccer is a huge part of the culture here and I watched lots of soccer games with my siblings, family members, and neighbors. One thing I noticed and really loved about the community I was in was that every night there were new people at the house. They would either be family members or neighbors who would come over and sit outside talking with my parents or come inside to watch soccer. Everyone I met was so welcoming and interesting and I loved hearing about everyone's stories pertaining to their lives in Namibia. Another thing my host sister told me about the Herero people was the huge emphasis they put on family here. They have very large families with lots of aunts, uncles, and cousins. They even call people family who aren't technically family and welcome anyone into their home. She said that if you are a Herero, you call and accept all other Herero as family. I admired this aspect of their culture because everyone was so welcoming and kind to one another. With no question, my mom and I would prepare whoever was in the house that night a plate of food and make sure everyone was fed. My host dad always made sure I ate the most food saying, "you will never starve in this house." Family is a big deal and they all welcomed me with open arms which made me feel right at home. It is hard being away from my family for this long but knowing I have a family to go to in Windhoek is extremely comforting.

Every morning my host dad would drive me back to the CGE house for classes on his way to work. In the car we would listen to morning talk shows (sometimes in Afrikaans, which I did not understand) and catch up on the daily news. I would ask him questions and he would tell me all about the political and economic state of Namibia and his opinions on it. He also had lots of opinions and questions about the United States so I always found our conversations to and from school and work to be very interesting and engaging. My dad works for First National Bank here in Namibia and my mom worked for the Ministry of Education as a 2nd grade teacher. They both taught me a lot about these sectors of the economy and always answered any questions I had. We would all sit together and play card games at night for hours just laughing and talking which made me extremely happy. I even learned some pretty fun card games which I wasn't too horrible at! It was times like that that I cherished the most and learned the most about family dynamics here. Other time around the house was spent talking with my 17 year old host sister, Etjo, about life in high school, which I found really interesting because I too have a 17 year old sister back home. I found there were lots of similarities between the school she went to and our high school back home and teenage girls seem to enjoy the same things. We talked about boys, music, shopping, and even watched some pretty bad reality TV together. Etjo and I had lots of fun during the week and I really was grateful she was there to talk to me, make me laugh, and teach me to cook! My 21 year old sister Virua is a medical student at the University of Namibia and we visited her dorm which was really nice! I liked to see the campus and make comparisons to universities back home. We ended the night by looking up at the beautiful sky from my brothers truck. The skies in Namibia are absolutely gorgeous and that night you could see almost every single star in the sky. It is truly amazing.

When I was packing up and getting ready to leave after a wonderful week, my host mom wanted to dress me up in traditional Herero clothing which most Herero women wear. She said in the past they used to have to wear these outfits all the time but in modern days the women mostly wear these outfits during weddings or funerals. She had about 20 different colors of the dress and my sister and her chose one for me that they thought would go with my skin and hair color. These outfits are regarded as proper dress for traditional married women (I'm not married!!) and by wearing this long dress a woman shows her in laws that she is willing to take up the responsibilities of a Herero home and will raise her children according to their culture. The dress was super heavy and there were four layers of petticoats under the dress! With the Namibian heat I am not sure how these women survive in so many clothes but I give them lots of credit. Once I had it on they made me have a photo shoot all around the house so here is what resulted:
With the puppy
All dressed up complete with a gourd of some sorts
My host mom, Hilda!
My host sister, Etjo!
While I was leaving my host mom kept saying how much she wants me to come back to Namibia one day with my family and we can stay in their house whenever we want. I hope that I will get the opportunity to come back and visit this beautiful family someday and I cannot thank them enough for the hospitality and support they gave me. It was a valuable week in Windhoek and I will never forget the Katjivena family!